Bahamas Blue

We said goodbye to February and Florida in the same hour.

I admit that we have become more superstitious over the past year. Most sailors are aware that it's supposed to be bad luck to leave for a passage on a Friday. Given that this was going to be our first offshore passage on Wakataitea, we wanted to venture forth with all the luck we could get. So, we left Lake Worth, Florida on Thursday, February 28th at 11:30 pm to cross the Straits of Florida and the Gulf Stream.

The Gulf Stream is basically a river in an ocean. It flows from the Gulf of Mexico in a northerly direction off the US coast to Canada and beyond. If you were set adrift in the Stream, it will be a sure ride to Nova Scotia. The current runs about 2 knots, so crossing it from Florida will set you more northerly than where you want to be, especially if you are in a slow-moving boat...like us.

Our original goal was to get to Miami and then cross to Bimini and make our way to the Exumas in the middle of the Bahamian archipelago. However, a nice weather window opened, and since we were sick of motoring in the ICW, we jumped at the chance. I was also tired of shopping. We heard many times that food and other items would be expensive in the Bahamas, with some items hard to find. So we stocked up on things repeatedly, until I could not bear to look at another grocery store.  Wakataitea can hold a lot, and she was starting to look pretty full.

We headed into the night from Lake Worth. The anchorage was glassy calm, and the lights from the commercial port lit our way out the channel and into the darkness. The kids were snug in their beds as we passed the sea buoy into the Straits of Florida. There was a breath of northerly wind, the stars twinkled, and the two-foot seas lapped the hulls. We motored all night and our watches were uneventful.

Sometime during the following morning, we left the Stream and arrived at the Little Bahama  Bank. As expected, the current took our leisurely course and dropped us at a higher latitude than we had aimed for, but we soon adjusted a course across the bank towards the Abaco Islands.

Sunrise in the Gulf Stream

It was an unforgettable experience to leave the rich blue colour of the deep Atlantic Ocean and move from 600 feet to 40 feet in a matter of a few minutes. Simon was fishing while the water was still deep and caught a couple of fish. Tuna for lunch! As we came upon the bank, the turquoise water was mesmerizing. We hung off the bow as we sailed over visible sea urchins and coral heads on the bottom.

Getting fishing line set up

Simon fishing

Teamwork

Pulling in dinner

Coming onto the Little Bahama Bank

We spent the rest of the day motoring across the shallow bank in 18-22 feet of water trying to reach one of the cays for the night. We were halfway across the bank when the sun started to set. Instead of pushing ahead in the dark, we simply anchored where we were, put on lots of lights and went to bed. (See Wavey's Words for her account of our arrival and the anchoring shark tale.)

Kids packing up the jib

Sunset in the middle of the Bank

The next morning we were sailing by 0630. It was a perfect day: warm, sunny and just enough breeze to sail. While we sailed on, I spent the morning baking banana bread and roasting vegetables for a quinoa salad. As the smells filled the boat, I felt a surge of contentment. We were home.

We arrived at Great Sale Cay, a small uninhabited cay that is a popular stopover for boats sailing back and forth to the US. I could not contain my joy once the anchor was set. THIS is what we had worked so hard to return to.

Raising our "Q" flag

We tidied up the deck, put up the sun awning, and Wakataitea was transformed into a cool, floating, party tent. We donned bathing suits, masks, snorkels and went out exploring.  Reassuring the kids that there were no sharks in sight, we relaxed in the blue, clear water. Later, we ate our meal outside on deck as dusk came. I kept saying, "pinch me!"

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For years I have claimed that purple is my favourite colour. However, after two days in Bahamian waters, I declare I've had a change of heart. (Are you allowed to change your favourite colour after 50?)  All I can think about is blue. There are more shades than I have ever imagined. As the sun moves through the day, some of the colours are electric.  I've never seen water this spectacularly blue. It takes my breath away. 

My family just smiles as I scream one more time, "THIS IS SO BEAUTIFUL!"

The journey to return to our sailing and cruising lifestyle started many months ago, but it feels like we have reached a destination...a milestone where the next leg of this adventure will begin. I realize that sounds kind of corny. 

I am intoxicated by blue.