More Whales!

We decided to stay one more day in Tadoussac and catch up on school and explore some more. We had a spectacular hike climbing over the rocks with great views overlooking the mouth of the Saguenay River and fjord.

Wavey on the rocks

Simon...always on the edge

Watching tender loading from cruise ship to come ashore

Simon (still on the edge) watching the ferry cross the Saguenay

We prepared for yet another early morning departure for our all day trip to Rimouski. We donned warm clothing under our foul weather gear to protect from the grey, wet day.

We were just getting the lines and fenders stowed after casting off, when we started to see the white backs of Belugas. We were not even a mile out when Nahanni V was greeted by smiling whales from all directions. There was no way we could adhere to the 400 metre rule!

We put the engine in neutral and for about an hour, we drifted and observed. We counted as least eight whales including a baby. The whales swam on their backs to look up at us, and we peered over the rail to look at them. A seemingly mutual curiosity kept us focused as we ran back and forth the deck to watch them swim around and under the boat.

John did a stellar job of getting some underwater shots. However, he had to be careful as one of the whales was a bit too interested in the camera!

After some time, one of the whales came by (maybe the Mama?) and the baby swam away with her. Maybe it was time for lunch. 

The whales seemed to notice (as did we), that we were about to drift onto the shore. Before we even put the engine in gear, they rounded each other up, took one last look at us and dove off.  It was the most amazing thing.  

We carried on into fog, with a close eye on the RADAR and big smiles on our faces.

The kids and I were still on the bow when we quickly came upon the large standing waves where the current at the rivers meet. Waves crashed over the bow and we had to hang on to avoid getting thrown overboard. A good lesson to have our harnesses on in seemingly good weather as well as rough seas.  The kids were wet and freezing by the time we were well underway, so we bundled them up in their bunks with hot packs and set a course for Rimouski. We must have seen seven or eight more whales ten miles further out.

Does it get any better than that?

Quebec City to Tadoussac

After Quebec City, the distances between ports get longer and the areas become more remote. Tides and currents need to be considered when navigating. Things like fuel and food that are easy to obtain upstream, become less accessible. So, we needed a little time to prepare and plan. 

Before we returned our little Fiat, we did another big grocery run and visited the Marché du Vieux-Port  for fresh fruits and vegetables. The kids took over some of the shopping in the market to practice their conversational French. We also did one last walk around the old port.

Shopping in the Marche

We ate baskets of these fresh, local strawberries

Across from the marina

Who can resist climbing into this sculpture?

As most people know, we are not early risers. So, when John told me that we had to leave Quebec City at 0345 to catch the ebbing tide downriver, I winced just a little. We did however, manage to rise on time to stagger our way into the cold, dark morning. Simon made a cameo appearance and then retreated back into his warm bed as the city lights on the river began to fade.

Leaving early morning

The conditions were calm as we motored downstream.We had a few knots of current against us at the beginning, but when the tide turned, we raced along at about 13 knots. After 9.5 hours, we arrived at the Port de Refuge at Cap-a-l'Aigle which is a fully equipped marina established for boats making their way on the river. We were struck by the effects of the tides, which at this time were about 4 metres.

Onshore, the kids got their first look at the marine life that can be seen during the cycle of the tide. It was difficult to get them back to Bomeschool after their prolonged playtime.

We had another early morning the following day at 0530 when we departed for Tadoussac. This town at the mouth of the Saguenay River is a famous place where many kinds of sea mammals come to feed. There are thirteen species of whales here!

Sunrise on our way to Tadoussac

Around 0930, we were about one hour from Tadoussac. The kids got up, dressed and geared up with binoculars. The sun was shining, the seas were calm and visibility was perfect. As we approached the famous lighthouse outside of the Saguenay, we started to see the blowholes. We stood in awe and pointed all around us as our whale-watching adventure began. 

Searching for whales

First, we saw Belugas with their white backs swimming in pods. Then came black fins, which were likely Minke whales. Shiny black heads turned out to be about fifty Harbour seals diving, eating and swimming. We could hear them breathing they were so close.

Thar she blows!

Prince Shoal Lighthouse

Seals and a Minke whale which just dove before getting this photo

Seals

As we got closer, pods of Beluga came fairly close to the boat. We could see the mother whales and their greyish baby calves. The Marine Park dictates boats do not come within 400 metres of the whales so as not to disturb their activities. But they were coming closer to us, and there was no where to move without coming closer to other whales or seals. It was breathtaking, exciting and awe-inspiring all at the same time. I kept chanting under my breath, "We are sooo lucky." (Of course, I cannot multi-task while watching and chanting and did not get a closer photo.)

As we were drifting into Tadoussac watching the whales, tour boats started coming out with boat loads of tourists to see the whales. Whale watching is big business in Tadoussac and there are many tourists that come to observe and appreciate these amazing animals.

Enthusiastic tourists in perfect whale watching weather

We made our way into the port and tied up next to several other sailboats. After a hot meal, we took a stroll around this old town that has been an important trading post in history.  

Breakfast for the crew after a day of  whale watching

Hotel Tadoussac

Marina from the town above

The kids were itching to get to the beach and squealed with delight as they found starfish, sea urchins, crabs and krill that they collected in pails and studied. They built forts in the sand and watched as the rising tides washed them away without a trace.

Starfish and sea urchin

Baby crab

Sea life and forts...what could be better?

Beach time

After we brushed most of the sand off, we visited the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre (http://www.quebecmaritime.ca/en/company/marine-mammal-interpretation-centre-cimm/activities). We learned heaps about the whales and the research being conducted here. Their whale skeletons were very well-displayed and the exhibits were interactive. The staff were passionate about the marine mammals in the area and were eager to share their knowledge. 

The Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre

The kids awoke to our second day in Tadoussac with a low tide. The beach they had been playing at the previous day had doubled in size and there were more treasures to explore. After some negotiating, they were excused from Bomeschool for the morning to poke around on the beach. They returned back for their afternoon classes with strange new requests for lunch (e.g. "Can you please cook up this sea urchin?") and new injuries (e.g. Wavey's pinched finger from her new crab buddy.)  

First crab injury

I heard some yawns a bit through math, but our students perked up as we started a new Science unit starting with the lunar cycle and the moon's effects on tides. We ended the day by watching a past episode of CBC's The Nature of Things, "Call of the Baby Beluga". Fascinating look at this endangered whale. 
(See at http://www.cbc.ca/natureofthings/episodes/call-of-the-baby-beluga)

The only down side is that I cannot get that Raffi song out of my head.  You know the one. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK1sF6kv0l8) 

After two days in Tadoussac, we started to prepare for our departure to Rimouski. Out of the blue, we got a text from our friends Tom, Chris and Noah. They informed us that they were in Quebec City and wondered if we were in the area. Simon immediately stated, "Can we go back to Quebec to see Noah?" We shook our heads. Despite our wish to see our friends, we could not make the 100 nautical miles back upstream. Then we got the text: they were going to rent a car and make the three hour drive to come and see us!

The following morning, the kids raced through their language, math and science so they could collect sea creatures to show Noah.  Noah and his parents arrived around noon and the kids quickly fell into their comfort zone, as good friends will do. 

Life at low tide

Starfish and sea urchins

The fog had been rolling in and out all day, but we felt we had a window of good visibility to go for a sail and see some whales in the process.  As we got half a mile out of the harbour, the icy fog rolled in and the visibility was reduced to about 50 feet. Luckily our RADAR was working well and we could see the boat that passed in front of us about 100 feet on the computer screen.  About 1.5 miles out, we encountered some standing waves as the ebbing current from the Saguenay was meeting the St. Lawrence current. It looked very ominous in the fog.

Chris and Tom

Noah and Simon before the fog rolled in

We decided to turn back into the port as there was no way we were going to spot any whales. The fog lifted briefly when Tom yelled, "Whale!"  We all scrambled to see three Belugas swimming off our starboard side. As we made our way we sighted them again, and this time, they swam right under out boat and alongside! One was particularly curious and swam around to the back of the boat before diving. It was unbelievable how lucky we were to see these amazing animals!

Belugas swimming beside the boat (taken by Chris Pollard)

We stayed on our high for the rest of the day visiting with our friends, walking around the town, going for a hike, and dining out. We were sad to see the day end and wave goodbye to good friends. 

Wavey, Noah and Simon walking above the beach

Kids with fog rolling in on the beach

Looking out at the mouth of the fjord

For us, Tadoussac was about whales and friends; unexpected visits and smiling memories.

We are so lucky.

Ville de Québec

Quebec City. Founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1608. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Old buildings. Art. More restaurants than you can count. Impressive Chateau Frontenac. Street performers. One of my favourite cities.

Chateau Frontenac

View of port and St. Lawrence River

Quebec is all these things and more. Its name comes from an Algonguin word meaning "where the river narrows".  It has played a significant role in Canadian history and as the tourist guide says, it is the "birthplace of French civilization in North America", 

It is also a great place to hang out with Granny.

After getting settled in the marina in the Vieux Port, we started making plans for our vacation with John's Mom, Lois. Together, we rented a car: a peppy little Fiat to get us around. Unfortunately, our rental coincided with the Grand Prix Cycliste; a race where the city turned into a frenzy of speeding cyclists. Most of the roads were closed, and the streets were packed with people to watch this grand event. We had trouble walking without getting yelled at by police to stay off the roads. After a couple of hours of me re-learning how to drive a car in a new city with crazy traffic delays, we found our way to a supermarché to stock on provisions.  

Outside the store, we happened upon a guy who just happened to be shopping with his Polaris Slingshot three-wheeled motorcycle. He saw that John and Simon were interested in it and let them sit in it for a photo op. Trés cool! (Note that he did NOT give Simon the keys.) 

After we picked up Granny from the airport, we decided to try our first Quebec city restaurant called Légende (restaurantlegende.com). We read online:"An intimate, upscale restaurant featuring a menu of seasonal dishes". Our waiter told us that everything is local from the Gulf of St. Lawrence region (except the wines of course.) The dishes are small in a tapa kind-of-way and are meant for sharing. The fisherman's platter that we ordered was nothing like we have ever seen. Not a lick of breading, or anything that was remotely recognizable. It was however, delicious, healthy and added to our adventuring spirit. Wavey nonchalantly ordered the blood pudding dish like she had been eating it all her life, and shared with us all.  New experiences all around.

Meal at Legende

The Fisherman's Platter (notice the foamy shrimp and strawberry dish on the left)

We decided to stop "formal" bomeschooling during Granny's visit and use the opportunity to go into field trip mode.  We enjoyed walking around the city (phys ed, map-reading), watching street performers (performing arts), poking into shops (money management and French), and eating gelato (reading, decision-making).

Going up on the Funicular

Boutique shopping with Granny

Beautiful streets and shops

Marina dining

The weather was glorious for most of the visit, which allowed us to visit the Citadel and take a tour of this still operational military station. On our rainy day, we made our way to the Musée de Civilization where we learned about nanotechnology, the history of First Nations in Quebec, and little known facts about cats and dogs. The last exhibit we visited involved the senses and exploring our perceptions of our world. As usual, we closed the place, yearning for more learning.

Our one rainy day

Learning about cats and dogs

Hanging out 

Ahhhhhh!

Picnic lunch waiting for our tour of the Citadel

A soldier and his goat

In the evenings, we retreated to Granny's boutique hotel where the kids were greeted at the door with lemonade, fresh pastries and apples for guests (well, we were kinda guests). We watched movies and visited before returning to Nahanni V to recharge for the following day. 

Au revoir Granny!

As we reflected on our visit, we all felt it had been a fantastic five days. Is there any better thing than spending time in your favourite place with those you love?