Bahamas Blue

We said goodbye to February and Florida in the same hour.

I admit that we have become more superstitious over the past year. Most sailors are aware that it's supposed to be bad luck to leave for a passage on a Friday. Given that this was going to be our first offshore passage on Wakataitea, we wanted to venture forth with all the luck we could get. So, we left Lake Worth, Florida on Thursday, February 28th at 11:30 pm to cross the Straits of Florida and the Gulf Stream.

The Gulf Stream is basically a river in an ocean. It flows from the Gulf of Mexico in a northerly direction off the US coast to Canada and beyond. If you were set adrift in the Stream, it will be a sure ride to Nova Scotia. The current runs about 2 knots, so crossing it from Florida will set you more northerly than where you want to be, especially if you are in a slow-moving boat...like us.

Our original goal was to get to Miami and then cross to Bimini and make our way to the Exumas in the middle of the Bahamian archipelago. However, a nice weather window opened, and since we were sick of motoring in the ICW, we jumped at the chance. I was also tired of shopping. We heard many times that food and other items would be expensive in the Bahamas, with some items hard to find. So we stocked up on things repeatedly, until I could not bear to look at another grocery store.  Wakataitea can hold a lot, and she was starting to look pretty full.

We headed into the night from Lake Worth. The anchorage was glassy calm, and the lights from the commercial port lit our way out the channel and into the darkness. The kids were snug in their beds as we passed the sea buoy into the Straits of Florida. There was a breath of northerly wind, the stars twinkled, and the two-foot seas lapped the hulls. We motored all night and our watches were uneventful.

Sometime during the following morning, we left the Stream and arrived at the Little Bahama  Bank. As expected, the current took our leisurely course and dropped us at a higher latitude than we had aimed for, but we soon adjusted a course across the bank towards the Abaco Islands.

Sunrise in the Gulf Stream

It was an unforgettable experience to leave the rich blue colour of the deep Atlantic Ocean and move from 600 feet to 40 feet in a matter of a few minutes. Simon was fishing while the water was still deep and caught a couple of fish. Tuna for lunch! As we came upon the bank, the turquoise water was mesmerizing. We hung off the bow as we sailed over visible sea urchins and coral heads on the bottom.

Getting fishing line set up

Simon fishing

Teamwork

Pulling in dinner

Coming onto the Little Bahama Bank

We spent the rest of the day motoring across the shallow bank in 18-22 feet of water trying to reach one of the cays for the night. We were halfway across the bank when the sun started to set. Instead of pushing ahead in the dark, we simply anchored where we were, put on lots of lights and went to bed. (See Wavey's Words for her account of our arrival and the anchoring shark tale.)

Kids packing up the jib

Sunset in the middle of the Bank

The next morning we were sailing by 0630. It was a perfect day: warm, sunny and just enough breeze to sail. While we sailed on, I spent the morning baking banana bread and roasting vegetables for a quinoa salad. As the smells filled the boat, I felt a surge of contentment. We were home.

We arrived at Great Sale Cay, a small uninhabited cay that is a popular stopover for boats sailing back and forth to the US. I could not contain my joy once the anchor was set. THIS is what we had worked so hard to return to.

Raising our "Q" flag

We tidied up the deck, put up the sun awning, and Wakataitea was transformed into a cool, floating, party tent. We donned bathing suits, masks, snorkels and went out exploring.  Reassuring the kids that there were no sharks in sight, we relaxed in the blue, clear water. Later, we ate our meal outside on deck as dusk came. I kept saying, "pinch me!"

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For years I have claimed that purple is my favourite colour. However, after two days in Bahamian waters, I declare I've had a change of heart. (Are you allowed to change your favourite colour after 50?)  All I can think about is blue. There are more shades than I have ever imagined. As the sun moves through the day, some of the colours are electric.  I've never seen water this spectacularly blue. It takes my breath away. 

My family just smiles as I scream one more time, "THIS IS SO BEAUTIFUL!"

The journey to return to our sailing and cruising lifestyle started many months ago, but it feels like we have reached a destination...a milestone where the next leg of this adventure will begin. I realize that sounds kind of corny. 

I am intoxicated by blue.

The Space Coast and Velcro Beach

At the trailing end of January, we made our way to Titusville, Florida to visit the "Space Coast."  Our main reason for coming here was to visit NASA and the Kennedy Space Center.  We found docking space for three days, and rented a car for two days of exploration. 

At the Kennedy Space Center, we had one full day learning about space travel and the history of NASA.  Some of the attractions were closed due to the US government shutdown, but there was more than we could see in one day. We were happily spaced out.

Actual Atlantis shuttle on display

Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB) at NASA

Dusk at the Rocket Garden

We also found some interesting local sights to see including an orange grove tour and an airboat tour through the floodplains.  For more exciting details about these adventures, see Wavey's Words and Simon SAYS.

Rainbow in Titusville

On January 26th, we made our way to Vero Beach, Florida where many cruisers make a stop.  It's nicknamed, "Velcro Beach," as many people get stuck here on their way south.  We passed the municipal marina with a large mooring field which was packed with boats; two or three boats rafted up on each mooring. We dropped our anchor north of the mooring field away from most of the other boats. We wondered what people found so appealling about this place. Certainly, we were not going to stay here long. Ha!

Vero Beach City Marina

Three boats rafted up on one mooring ball

Rowing into shore our first day

After a few days of being in Vero Beach, we realized what the fuss is about. This little cruising community is easy. There is a lounge with internet. Clean showers. A daily cruiser's radio net. Weekly social events. Morning walks. Laundry machines that work. A free bus service that comes on the hour and connects to the rest of the transit system. There is good shopping, restaurants and other amenities. There is an office where you can have things shipped. A weekly farmer's market. Perhaps the biggest draw, is that it is relatively cheap to stay on a ball or at anchor. While we chose to be on our own hook, we could pay a day's mooring rate and and use all their facilities.

Lunch after market day

Chilling in the lounge after hot showers

Catching up on internet

After a few days at Vero Beach, we decided to stay a little longer and get some jobs done. Michael got his clicky finger going again and ordered us more items we needed. We decided to replace the boat's batteries, install wind instruments, change some of the running rigging, and install a new VHF, to name a few. I sewed new harnesses for the kids with the seat belts from our old car. We also found a new (used) inflatable dinghy to use until we could repair the leak in Wakataitea's sailing dinghy.

Getting the old and heavy batteries (130 lb each!) out of the boat

Kids repairing dinghy

New struts for the salon hatch

Getting acquainted with Waka's Sailrite machine

Trying out their new harnesses

Installations aloft

During our stay, we made some friends with other cruisers also heading south. We shared meals, stories, advice, weather forecasts, charts, and laughter over the weeks.

Our first "Afternoonsies" on Wakataitea with friends Diane, Bob, Judy and Gregg

Simon with Diane and Bob from True North

Our new artist friend Teri Jones generously offered to come over to give us an art lesson using alcohol paints. What a treat!

Art lesson on Wakataitea

Our place in the anchorage turned out to be a sweet spot as well. On a daily basis, dolphins swam by the boat, we saw manatees coming up for a breath, and pelicans crashed next to the boat in search of fish. The only downside were the mosquitoes and noseeums that ravaged us some days!

Simon sailing around the anchorage before the center board started leaking too badly

Kids borrowed kayaks one day from our friends on True North

Wavey hanging around at anchor

Cruising presents many unexpected opportunities. On the Cruiser's Net one day, we heard that they gave free tours of the Piper Aircraft facility. So, for two hours one day, we had a guided tour of the Piper manufacturing plant and watched hundreds of workers hand build airplanes. It was amazing!

Amazing trees in Vero!

Too fancy for us!

Being in one place for awhile was great to develop some routines and engage in some school activities. When they kids weren't doing school or on field trips, they were hauling water, getting fuel and running errands for us onshore. Such independent kids!

Geology on the water (bring your own geodes)

Cracking open some geodes for science

Filling the tanks

And just enough left to have a bath on deck!

As much as we enjoyed Vero Beach, a month was long enough; it was time to rip away from this cosy spot.

Looking out over the mooring field at Vero Beach from our bit of paradise in the anchorage

We returned to the ICW and over two days made our way to Lake Worth and the upscale Palm Beach area. I don't know what we were thinking to travel during a weekend especially with the warm temps and beautiful sunshine. I think everyone in Florida was on a high speed power boat!

Simon at the helm

Palatial homes on the ICW

Coming into West Palm Beach area

Sunday afternoon on ICW

There were more bridges than we had seen before and on our second day to Lake Worth we had seven bascule bridges to pass through. It felt like we entered another world as we came into the swanky West Palm Beach area and into the land of mega yachts and monster mansions.

Waiting for a bridge to open with boats buzzing all around

John keeping a cool head throughout all the craziness

We met up with our pals on True North again in Lake Worth and had more fun hanging out and eating great food. Bob and Diane totally spoiled us by bringing ice cream sundaes for dessert which stayed solidly frozen with a block of dry ice. These people think of everything!

With our last loads of water, diesel and fresh food aboard we were finally ready to head east across the Gulf Stream .

Getting dinghy ready to get fuel and water

Fuel run

Filling the tanks

Onto the Bahamas!