Monday, 17 December 2018

Take Wakataitea?



After the wreck of Nahanni V, we received many heartfelt emails. One of these messages arrived about a week after we got back to Canada. It was entitled "Take Wakataitea?"

Before I tell you more about the email, I will explain a little about the crew of Wakataitea. We met Catherine, Michael, their lovely kids Enzo and Francesca in Grenada during the summer of 2017. Quite often, we ran into Catherine while she walked their beautiful dog, Juneau. Several times, the kids met on the beach Prickly Bay.


The following winter, we island-hopped north and met up occasionally with the Waka crew on the beach, at anchor, or around town. We learned that this energetic family had been cruising on their 46' Wharram catamaran for three years, and were gearing up to go back to land life for awhile. The last time we saw them was aboard their boat in Guadeloupe, about a week before Nahanni V met her end in St. Croix. They told us that they were looking for someone to take their boat while they went back to land life. They were not ready to sell her yet, and did not like the idea of storing her ashore for a long period. We couldn't think of anyone.



Enzo and Michael on Wakataitea in February 2018
So, back to the email. Firstly, Catherine and Michael offered condolences for our loss. Then, they reiterated their plan to take a break from cruising. Then, they asked us  if we were interested in taking their boat for awhile.

John and I read the email together.  Our jaws dropped. Our first thought was,"We just wrecked our boat and they want to loan us theirs?" We read the message several times to make sure we understood. This family wanted to entrust their sailboat with the Nahannis for awhile.


We corresponded with Michael and Catherine for several months while we lived with Lois. It was challenging in those months to look ahead to the future, as we were focused on life in the moment. We frequently discussed our options of getting back to cruising, and how a boat sharing arrangement could possibly work. 


After Lois died, we all needed a break. We knew if we were going to borrow this boat, a visit was in order. We wanted to see the boat while it was afloat, in cruising mode. 
We needed to find out if "taking Wakataitea" was a good fit for everyone. 


On June 20, 2018, after making all the necessary arrangements for Lois' funeral, we hopped in the car and headed to North Carolina, where Wakataitea was anchored. They would not be there for long--the crew were soon to be hauling out and arranging storage.


Wakataitea was anchored off the barrier islands of Cape Lookout National Seashore, a 56-mile long section of the outer bank on the North Carolinan coast where wild horses roam the adjacent Shackleford Bank. Getting there by car is tricky, as the area is remote, with shifting sand roads. We learned there was a ferry that would take us to the islands, where we could drive to the famous Cape Lookout Lighthouse and the Visitor's Centre. 

After two days and a 13 hour drive, we arrived in Davis, a small coastal town where there was a private ferry. We arrived early in the morning at the ferry dock, and found before us, a wooden vessel equipped for four vehicles. Signs recommended we have tow ropes with us (which we didn't,) as it was common to get stuck in the shifting sand of island.  They also strongly recommended to reduce the air pressure in our car tire to 20 lb/square inch to make driving on the sand easier, (which we did.) 
Davis Ferry
Lining up for the ferry
Sign informing of the dangers of venturing to the islands
The skipper of the ferry (who looked a bit older than Simon) competently took us the eight miles to the outer island. As we disembarked, the crew routed me safely around a huge hole in the road that had been washed out by the previous day's rains.  We checked in with the warden of the park and started our journey along the beach to find Wakataitea.
Arriving off the ferry at the park office
Driving through the sand was like driving in 30 cm of snow before the plow comes.  You are lucky if you can find the rut of the vehicle that went before you. It was especially exciting when there were large puddles of unknown depths to plow through. Thankfully, we did not get stuck, and we arrived at the Visitor's Centre without incident.
Death grip on the wheel
Driving on the sand road
Image result for harkers island lighthouse
Cape Lookout Lighthouse
We found our way to the beach and the boat at anchor about a mile away. We spotted Wakataitea's tender on the beach, so thought that Michael should be close at hand. We called on the VHF and soon located him exploring the beach. We piled ourselves, our gear, and some provisions into their spacious dinghy and set sail for the mother ship.


It didn't take long until we were united with the rest of the crew of Wakataitea. We were greeted warmly and made to feel at home. 
Wakataitea Crew
I was instantly transformed into a cruising sailor again. A giddiness and lightness rose inside me. John had that sailor look in his eyes that I love. The kids quickly overcame any awkwardness, and were soon playing games, building things, and swimming with Enzo and Francesca. But, could this be home?
Girls on aft deck
We spent four days on board, checking out every cabin, locker, and system, while getting to know this interesting family. We talked and talked and talked, while we lived life the Wakataitea way. The hours flew by, and my head swam with questions. Could we (die-hard monohull sailors) handle this huge catamaran? Could this boat-sharing thing really work? How did we get so lucky to make friends with this generous family?
Learning the boat
Our brief sea trial
Wavey and Juneau bonding on deck
Getting ready to figure out this huge sail!
Catherine teaching us the ropes
Watching wild horses on Shackleford Bank
After two days on board, John and I retired for the night in Catherine and Michael's cabin. We imagined our life on this boat. It would be so cool to become the custodians of Wakataitea, and continue the voyage we started on Nahanni two years before. This was a boat filled with spirit, love, and adventure. 

We announced the next day, that we were "in." The kids sealed the decision quickly--they were in love with the boat, and happy with the prospect of going back at sea. We agreed to stay in touch over the next few months to continue planning the details for our transition to Wakataitea
Returning to the car to prepare for the ride home
Saying goodbye to Michael
On the ferry back to the mainland
We returned to Niagara-On-The-Lake and arrived into full-on summer. We had a long list of TO DOs: settle Lois's affairs, focus on school work, and catch up with friends. We also wanted to do some land travel while we waited for hurricane season to be over.
Canada Day sushi made by the kids
Simon and Wavey got involved in all kinds of activities. They went to sailing school, cycled the community, and hung out with friends.  Wavey went to theatre camp and Simon and I went camping to study science. John and I got other things sorted out at Lois's house and did some maintenance at our own property. It all seemed very busy.
Sailing School awards night in Niagara-On-the-Lake
Simon moving up another CanSail level
Wavey performing in The Lion King at summer camp
Cycling along the Niagara Parkway to Queenston Heights


Maintenance at our house
New paint and trimming at our house
Relaxing
Observing nature
We resumed our nomadic lifestyle and found ourselves camping and spending time at the cottage with friends and family. As September began, we prepared for a road trip to the east coast of Canada with stops in Belleville, Fredericton and Halifax to see more family and friends. 


On the dock at The Middleton Cottage


Life afloat
Water skiing at the Babcock cottage 
Visit with cousins at my brother Richard's in Stratford
Visit to Laine's in Caledon
Hanging out with Jean in Blue Mountain
Grandpa and Grandma at the cottage
Playing with cousins Nikolas and Oliver in Fredericton
Family dinner with my sister Liz and family in Fredericton


Sewing Nahanni V "wreck" quilts with Auntie Liz with the fabric we salvaged  
Our "wreck" quilts
Kids selling coffee at Halifax market with Auntie Susie
Hiking in Duncan's Cove, Nova Scotia with my sister Susanne
While travelling, we kept a close eye on the weather. We watched daily as Hurricane Florence barrelled towards the Carolinas. She made landfall on September 14, 2018 and then stalled over the Carolinas dumping 913 mm of rain over several days. It's reported that about 8 trillion gallons of water fell on North Carolina alone. 

For several days, Florence devastated homes, businesses and boats. The flooding was catastrophic. There were mandatory evacuation orders. Fifty-three people died.


We had no idea if Wakataitea would survive the storm and if so, what shape she would be in. We emailed with Michael and Catherine often, while we waited to get word on the damage. We ate enchiladas for good luck.


We finally got reports back from the boatyard that most boats survived with little damage. It was an incredible stroke of luck that Wakataitea had not floated away or ended up in a tree.

Damaged dodgers on Wakataitea
We returned back to Ontario and make our final preparations before heading south. We waited until Hallowe'en was over before heading to the U.S. so the kids could be with their friends.
Getting ready for the big night
In early November, we tied up the last of our obligations, and loaded the car up with our clothes, our salvaged sailing/boat gear, and our personal items. We were jam-packed.
Finally loaded
The roof of the car was little caved in
Off we go!
Finally, the Nahannis were ready to take Wakataitea.















4 comments:

  1. So excited for your family to be heading back to sea. Can't wait to read about your new adventures!

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    1. Thanks Nicole. Everyday is an new adventure around here. It's wonderful to know you are out there cheering us on! xo

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  2. What an amazing story teller you are. You are brave & courageous, and I admire your family for getting back on the boat and sailing off into the sunset, once again. See you next time you are in and around Fifty Point Marina. Cindy (POGO!)

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    1. Cindy,
      Thanks so much for your kind words! It's wonderful to hear from you. We look forward to hanging out at Fifty Point again in the future. Cheers,
      The Crew

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