Taking Wakataitea

We left Canada on November 4, 2018 for Beaufort, North Carolina where Wakataitea was waiting for us in a boatyard.  The drive down was smooth and uneventful. Every time we got gas, we shed a layer as the temperatures got progressively warmer.

Leaving!

As we got closer to the coast, we started to see evidence of Hurricane Florence. Logging trucks were everywhere and garbage at the side of the roads was piled high. Signs on stores were missing. Construction crews took up half of our hotel the second night as we got closer to places like New Bern where the flooding had been crazy. There was standing water in ditches. People shared their stories of loss.

It was an autumn heat wave in Beaufort when we arrived, with temperatures in the high 20s. We found the boatyard, and got the keys to the boat. Wakataitea was tucked into the "long term" storage area away from the other boats that were actively getting ready for launching.  She was also parked next to a swampy area.

We climbed up the stairway to the deck and found the boat to be in good repair, with the exception of the dodgers that had blown down in the hurricane.  As we opened up the companionways, we noticed hundreds of little frogs, some alive, some dessicated on the deck and in the boat.  We guessed they must have blown onto the deck during the hurricane and were not sure how to get off. The other evident wildlife were mosquitoes and noseeums that ravaged us some warm afternoons.

Arriving

Finding the frogs

Repairing the dodgers

The owners of Wakataitea worked hard to decommission her in July, and left her in excellent condition. Despite their diligent efforts, some mildew and mold had grown in the cabins.  It took a day or so for us to clean her up, find the basic necessities, and settle in for our first night aboard.

After getting our stuff on board, we started to get to know the boat. The kids took to their own cabins and started dreaming of their new projects. John made repairs. We started to provision.

Wavey helping to unpack the sun awning 

First meal after we unloaded our stuff from the car into the boat

Simon and his new cabin

Getting gear at the Tractor Supply Store (TSC) in Morehead City

Provisioning

Wavey in her cabin

What I didn't expect to happen as this new adventure started to unfold, was a gut-wrenching grief that knocked me over some days. Unexpectedly, being on a boat again reminded me of what we lost, of things I had not considered for months while we had been on land. I missed Nahanni V and our previous sailing life. It felt hard starting again with another boat. I felt bursts of anger...and then moments of intense sadness. 

For a few days, I was on a rollercoaster of emotion. Gratitude lifted me to the highs, and sadness dragged me to the lows. Guilt formed somewhere in between when I felt I should be nothing but happy with this wonderful new boat. But, as I have learned about emotions, you can't run away from them. You have to pay attention to them, sit with them, and then...let them go.

So, we rode the waves of living aboard a boat on land, in a boatyard, with temperatures that ranged from 25 C in daytime to 4 C at night (with no heat). We figured things out, we found blankets, we started this new adventure.

Lunch on a warm sunny day

Taste testing new baking recipes and experimenting with oven

Demonstrating how cold it is at breakfast by showing our breath

Organized galley

While in the boatyard, we hung out in "The Captain's Lounge," an area with a sofa, chairs, TV and movies, as well as two washrooms and showers. It was the only place to access internet, which made it a frequent stop for cruisers coming into connect. It was a short walk from the boat (but a long walk first thing in the morning, to hit the washrooms.)

Keeping warm in the Captain's Lounge

While we were in the boatyard, we met several men working on their boats, and several who were preparing  for cruising. We frequently met in the evenings to watch movies and share sailing yarns, while waiting for the loo. The kids left a bag of their Halloween candy for the grown-ups each night, and were thrilled to see how much they had eaten everyday.

After two and a half weeks on the hard , we were ready to launch the boat and start heading south. We booked the launch for November 21st. We were anxious, but ready. Our water tanks were full, we had fuel, the galley was stocked.

Then John said, "There's a problem." A health problem.

So, we contacted our family doctor who offered to arrange some tests if we wanted to drive home.

The day before we were scheduled to get into the water, we cancelled the launch, emptied the water tanks, and packed our bags. We got back in the car and drove north for another 13 hours. The layers of clothes piled on with every fill up. Brrr.

After almost three weeks in North Carolina, we arrived back in Ontario on the American Thanksgiving Day. The roads were empty as everyone was home eating turkey.

We moved back into John's mother's home, which had not yet sold.  We went to our storage unit and dragged out to our pots and pans, dishes and winter coats. It snowed. To those friends and family we had already hugged goodbye, we hugged hello. John got some medical tests done. We embraced land life again. We restarted school lessons, went to yoga classes, stocked the fridge and filled the social calendar. 

School resumes at the library

Back on land

At times, it was a bit much for my brain to handle. I couldn't remember where things were. Where was the mayo I just bought? Was it on the boat or at the house? Where was the wok? At the boat? Storage? Got wrecked on Nahanni V? We rotated through the three winter outfits we had with us. I hoped that no one noticed I was always wearing the same sweater.

What amazed me in all of this moving around, was the kids' flexibility. When we told them we were heading home for a brief time, they looked shocked for a moment. Then, they started to plan what to pack. They simply look for the fun in it all. Simon was pleased with the fact he was going to be in Canada for his 13th birthday and could celebrate his birthday palooza week with friends and family. 

Cake #1

Cake #2

Cake #3 after go-karting with his friends

Another bonus of being back in Canada, was the opportunity to do cool Christmas stuff with loved ones. We attended parades and parties, made cookies, and went to the theatre.

Wavey with friends Katryna and Riley

Baking with Katryna and Jaden

Yes, I made them go sit with Santa

Christmas baking

Christmas stroll in the snow

Santa Claus parade in Niagara-On-The-Lake

At the mall

After "Christmas" dinner with Grandma and Grandpa

Grandma and Grandpa's birthday brunch

Visit from Auntie Susie - a hike to Ball's Falls

After a few weeks at home, John was given good news.  All was well and we could resume our sailing journey. So, after almost four weeks of being back in Canada and one week before Christmas, we packed up and headed south...again. 

Second time packed up

Take Wakataitea?

After the wreck of Nahanni V, we received many heartfelt emails. One of these messages arrived about a week after we got back to Canada. It was entitled "Take Wakataitea?"

Before I tell you more about the email, I will explain a little about the crew of Wakataitea. We met Catherine, Michael, their lovely kids Enzo and Francesca in Grenada during the summer of 2017. Quite often, we ran into Catherine while she walked their beautiful dog, Juneau. Several times, the kids met on the beach Prickly Bay.

The following winter, we island-hopped north and met up occasionally with the Waka crew on the beach, at anchor, or around town. We learned that this energetic family had been cruising on their 46' Wharram catamaran for three years, and were gearing up to go back to land life for awhile. The last time we saw them was aboard their boat in Guadeloupe, about a week before Nahanni V met her end in St. Croix. They told us that they were looking for someone to take their boat while they went back to land life. They were not ready to sell her yet, and did not like the idea of storing her ashore for a long period. We couldn't think of anyone.

Enzo and Michael on Wakataitea in February 2018

So, back to the email. Firstly, Catherine and Michael offered condolences for our loss. Then, they reiterated their plan to take a break from cruising. Then, they asked us  if we were interested in taking their boat for awhile.

John and I read the email together.  Our jaws dropped. Our first thought was,"We just wrecked our boat and they want to loan us theirs?" We read the message several times to make sure we understood. This family wanted to entrust their sailboat with the Nahannis for awhile.

We corresponded with Michael and Catherine for several months while we lived with Lois. It was challenging in those months to look ahead to the future, as we were focused on life in the moment. We frequently discussed our options of getting back to cruising, and how a boat sharing arrangement could possibly work. 

After Lois died, we all needed a break. We knew if we were going to borrow this boat, a visit was in order. We wanted to see the boat while it was afloat, in cruising mode. We needed to find out if "taking Wakataitea" was a good fit for everyone. 

On June 20, 2018, after making all the necessary arrangements for Lois' funeral, we hopped in the car and headed to North Carolina, where Wakataitea was anchored. They would not be there for long--the crew were soon to be hauling out and arranging storage.

Wakataitea was anchored off the barrier islands of Cape Lookout National Seashore, a 56-mile long section of the outer bank on the North Carolinan coast where wild horses roam the adjacent Shackleford Bank. Getting there by car is tricky, as the area is remote, with shifting sand roads. We learned there was a ferry that would take us to the islands, where we could drive to the famous Cape Lookout Lighthouse and the Visitor's Centre. 

After two days and a 13 hour drive, we arrived in Davis, a small coastal town where there was a private ferry. We arrived early in the morning at the ferry dock, and found before us, a wooden vessel equipped for four vehicles. Signs recommended we have tow ropes with us (which we didn't,) as it was common to get stuck in the shifting sand of island.  They also strongly recommended to reduce the air pressure in our car tire to 20 lb/square inch to make driving on the sand easier, (which we did.) 

Davis Ferry

Lining up for the ferry

Sign informing of the dangers of venturing to the islands

The skipper of the ferry (who looked a bit older than Simon) competently took us the eight miles to the outer island. As we disembarked, the crew routed me safely around a huge hole in the road that had been washed out by the previous day's rains.  We checked in with the warden of the park and started our journey along the beach to find Wakataitea.

Arriving off the ferry at the park office

Driving through the sand was like driving in 30 cm of snow before the plow comes.  You are lucky if you can find the rut of the vehicle that went before you. It was especially exciting when there were large puddles of unknown depths to plow through. Thankfully, we did not get stuck, and we arrived at the Visitor's Centre without incident.

Death grip on the wheel

Driving on the sand road

Cape Lookout Lighthouse

We found our way to the beach and the boat at anchor about a mile away. We spotted Wakataitea's tender on the beach, so thought that Michael should be close at hand. We called on the VHF and soon located him exploring the beach. We piled ourselves, our gear, and some provisions into their spacious dinghy and set sail for the mother ship.

It didn't take long until we were united with the rest of the crew of Wakataitea. We were greeted warmly and made to feel at home. 

Wakataitea Crew

I was instantly transformed into a cruising sailor again. A giddiness and lightness rose inside me. John had that sailor look in his eyes that I love. The kids quickly overcame any awkwardness, and were soon playing games, building things, and swimming with Enzo and Francesca. But, could this be home?

Girls on aft deck

We spent four days on board, checking out every cabin, locker, and system, while getting to know this interesting family. We talked and talked and talked, while we lived life the Wakataitea way. The hours flew by, and my head swam with questions. Could we (die-hard monohull sailors) handle this huge catamaran? Could this boat-sharing thing really work? How did we get so lucky to make friends with this generous family?

Learning the boat

Our brief sea trial

Wavey and Juneau bonding on deck

Getting ready to figure out this huge sail!

Catherine teaching us the ropes

Watching wild horses on Shackleford Bank

After two days on board, John and I retired for the night in Catherine and Michael's cabin. We imagined our life on this boat. It would be so cool to become the custodians of Wakataitea, and continue the voyage we started on Nahanni two years before. This was a boat filled with spirit, love, and adventure. 

We announced the next day, that we were "in." The kids sealed the decision quickly--they were in love with the boat, and happy with the prospect of going back at sea. We agreed to stay in touch over the next few months to continue planning the details for our transition to Wakataitea. 

Returning to the car to prepare for the ride home

Saying goodbye to Michael

On the ferry back to the mainland

We returned to Niagara-On-The-Lake and arrived into full-on summer. We had a long list of TO DOs: settle Lois's affairs, focus on school work, and catch up with friends. We also wanted to do some land travel while we waited for hurricane season to be over.

Canada Day sushi made by the kids

Simon and Wavey got involved in all kinds of activities. They went to sailing school, cycled the community, and hung out with friends.  Wavey went to theatre camp and Simon and I went camping to study science. John and I got other things sorted out at Lois's house and did some maintenance at our own property. It all seemed very busy.

Sailing School awards night in Niagara-On-the-Lake

Simon moving up another CanSail level

Wavey performing in The Lion King at summer camp

Cycling along the Niagara Parkway to Queenston Heights

Maintenance at our house

New paint and trimming at our house

Relaxing

Observing nature

We resumed our nomadic lifestyle and found ourselves camping and spending time at the cottage with friends and family. As September began, we prepared for a road trip to the east coast of Canada with stops in Belleville, Fredericton and Halifax to see more family and friends. 

On the dock at The Middleton Cottage

Life afloat

Water skiing at the Babcock cottage 

Visit with cousins at my brother Richard's in Stratford

Visit to Laine's in Caledon

Hanging out with Jean in Blue Mountain

Grandpa and Grandma at the cottage

Playing with cousins Nikolas and Oliver in Fredericton

Family dinner with my sister Liz and family in Fredericton

Sewing Nahanni V "wreck" quilts with Auntie Liz with the fabric we salvaged  

Our "wreck" quilts

Kids selling coffee at Halifax market with Auntie Susie

Hiking in Duncan's Cove, Nova Scotia with my sister Susanne

While travelling, we kept a close eye on the weather. We watched daily as Hurricane Florence barrelled towards the Carolinas. She made landfall on September 14, 2018 and then stalled over the Carolinas dumping 913 mm of rain over several days. It's reported that about 8 trillion gallons of water fell on North Carolina alone. 

For several days, Florence devastated homes, businesses and boats. The flooding was catastrophic. There were mandatory evacuation orders. Fifty-three people died.

We had no idea if Wakataitea would survive the storm and if so, what shape she would be in. We emailed with Michael and Catherine often, while we waited to get word on the damage. We ate enchiladas for good luck.

We finally got reports back from the boatyard that most boats survived with little damage. It was an incredible stroke of luck that Wakataitea had not floated away or ended up in a tree.

Damaged dodgers on Wakataitea

We returned back to Ontario and make our final preparations before heading south. We waited until Hallowe'en was over before heading to the U.S. so the kids could be with their friends.

Getting ready for the big night

In early November, we tied up the last of our obligations, and loaded the car up with our clothes, our salvaged sailing/boat gear, and our personal items. We were jam-packed.

Finally loaded

The roof of the car was little caved in

Off we go!

Finally, the Nahannis were ready to take Wakataitea.