Back to Dominica: Volunteering after Hurricane Maria

To our faithful blog post readers: 

Thank you for your patience! I apologize for the long delay between blog posts. I am catching up the posts so I can start blogging in real time again. Stay tuned...there are more adventures and misadventures to come!

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On January 25th, we arrived in Portsmouth, Dominica, packed with supplies and ready for our volunteer adventure. We anchored in the dark, not even realizing we slid past our friends on Trismic and anchored just ahead of them.

As daylight followed the next day, it became apparent that this island was not the same Dominica we visited six months ago.  The hills that were lush, green, and full of life, were now scarred, with dead trees and fallen branches. From our boat, we could see the sea of blue tarpaulins onshore where homes (or parts of them) remained. This island with its abundance of fruit trees and forests had been ravaged by Hurricane Maria five months earlier.

View from boat before Hurricane Maria

View after Maria - notice how many trees are gone and how many homes are now visible

From our boat, we looked to the beach and saw that the Portsmouth Yacht Services (PAYS) dock was in good repair, with several dinghies bobbing alongside. PAYS is an organization that provides tours, assistance and security for boaters who anchor in Prince Rupert Bay. They provide moorings, take your garbage, and help you access supplies or parts if needed. They host BBQs during the cruising season and there are often activities in their large shelter on the beach.

After a quick breakfast we arrived to shore, where workers were repairing the PAYS' roof and getting organized to provide services to cruisers who were visiting after the hurricane. The adjacent dinghy dock we frequented last year now stood in ruins in front of Madiba, one of our favourite restaurants. We were relieved to see that Madiba was still in good shape and was up and running serving meals and drinks.

PAYS shelter and office

Once we got ashore, it was a bit like a war zone as we walked the couple of kilometres to the Customs Dock for our official check-in to Dominica. The damage was extensive with wrecked buildings, fallen trees and some damaged boats. Clearing in went smoothly; we did the paperwork allowing us to stay for two weeks. We were uncertain if declaring the items we brought to donate would trigger problems, so we kept quiet about our packed boat. Having done our official business, we went to find our Dominican contact.

Hard to believe this was once a building

Shipwreck

Home partially destroyed

Destruction near Customs office

Only a few walls standing

Barren hills

Relief buildings

Portsmouth is the second largest town in Dominica, with a population of about 4,000. It's a place where most people know each other. We walked through the streets asking if anyone knew our contact person, Mr. Adenauer Douglas. It didn't take us long to find him after learning from people on the street that he was known as "Washway." We met Washway at his office/warehouse where there were boxes of food and supplies for distribution from various donors.

Washway assured us that the items we had brought into the country had to be officially cleared in. He quickly got on the phone and arranged to meet up with a Customs officer to search the items we had brought.  He called for a man from PAYS to come to our boat and unload the items at the dock of the Indian River.  Right on schedule, the items were cleared with no fuss and we stuffed them in the back of his little Honda Fit.

Once we had the gear and food sorted in his building, Washway gave us a tour of the rebuilding projects where we could get involved. He shared that lots of rebuilding had been done since Hurricane Maria last September, but there was much more work to do. Barriers to many projects included funding, getting materials, and finding people to do the work. It seemed that everywhere we looked, people were moving materials. We heard many stories about how work was temporarily halted while people waited for materials to arrive by supply boat.

Forklifts moved lumber up and down street all day long

Our first stop was at St. John's Catholic School. School had resumed, but the roof had not been repaired and water still leaked in. It did not look like we would be involved in this project, as materials had not yet been secured for the job.

St. John's School, Portsmouth

St. John's

Classroom at St. John's

Tarpaulin roof

Our second stop was at the Lamb's Feast, a building that had once been used as a soup kitchen providing meals and outreach to seniors in need. We were told it had been renovated the previous year, but was severely damaged after Maria.  A carpenter named Guyferson had been hired to complete the work and materials had been purchased. They were ready to have some help in framing the roof and screwing down the corrugated zinc steel roofing material locally known as "galvanized" or "zinc." 

Entering the Lamb's Feast

We met Jennifer, who was in charge of the meal program. She was eager to have repairs done so they could start getting meals out to people in outlying areas who were in great need.

Jennifer, who runs the meal and outreach program

Inside the Lamb's Feast

Kids checking out around the building. Notice the power lines are down and not connected.

Side view of the Lamb's Feast

Our final stop on the tour was Possie Vibrations, a community radio station run by volunteers. We met Ashton, as he picked up his adorable daughter from preschool. In addition to helping the community and his family clean up and repair their own homes, Ashton was working to clean up the station and get it operational again.  Washway stressed how important it is to have the radio station operating to share emergency information, but also to help build capacity in the community and to hear everyone's voices. 

Getting a tour of the station

The radio station retained half of its roof and suffered damage to part of the interior. 
Luckily, the equipment escaped water damage under one part of the intact roof. The radio tower that had stood in the yard behind the station fell over in the hurricane and ran across the yard and into the neighbour's garden. Ashton had received some donations from France including solar panels and a satellite dish, but needed assistance to set them up. John promised Ashton to help get the radio station up and running.

Tower down in the yard

Tower down across the refuse in the backyard

After one day in Dominica, we returned to Nahanni V with our heads full of images and plans for the following weeks. Our plan was to relax and get settled on the weekend and start work on the following Monday.

Sunset from Nahanni V in Portsmouth, Dominica

However, relaxing would have to wait a bit. We were up early the next day to get the kids to Saturday morning soccer, oops, I mean football. Washway told us about a great program run every Saturday for kids to play.  Simon and Wavey, Nathan and Millie from Trismic, and two boys from a neighbouring boat went out to play with about 50 other kids. I got roped into coaching the little players which was quite a challenge to keep them on task. 

Saturday morning football

Taking a rest

Breakaway

Millie

One young player taking a rest after playing for two hours

After football, we went to the school where volunteers were doing some painting. They didn't need our help, so we carried on to have lunch.

Painting crew packing up

Heading back for lunch

Chicken and rotis at Smithy's with Nathan and Millie

Our Saturday night ended up with a dinner on board our boat with Trismic crew and a cake to celebrate Neil's birthday.

He had a hard time with the trick candles that wouldn't blow out!

On Sunday night, PAYS hosted their first beach BBQ since the hurricane. It was the perfect venue to meet people who were interested in joining us to work.  The kids were thrilled to be with Nathan and Millie and made new friends with the kids on Saphira Blue.

The BBQ was packed. The rum punch flowed, the food was awesome, and the DJ got folks dancing. There was a blazing bonfire, which of course is where all the kids gathered with their poking sticks. A young woman who just happened to be a fire juggler, entertained and dazzled the crowd. Simon (who has dreamed of becoming a fire juggler since seeing buskers in Quebec city at age 2) approached her for a lesson and got his turn twirling flames into the night.

He's on fire!

Fire!

The party was going well. No one had been seriously burned, all the kids were accounted for, and everyone was having a great time. Then John decided to demonstrate his log rolling prowess on a palm tree log that the kids had been trying to roll on. He was doing pretty well. But, in the dark, he failed to see the large, rusty nail head protruding, until of course, he kicked it and it penetrated deep into the bottom of his foot. Thankfully, several rum punches delayed the initial pain of the nail going an inch into his foot and then out again, leaving him injured in the sand.

The offending nail

It was just before midnight when we got John back to the boat and the kids to bed. It was evident it was going to be a nasty wound to clean. At first I thought there were clothing threads coming out of his foot, until I figured out he wasn't wearing any socks, it was his muscle tissue threading out. Ick. Thank goodness for rum. I went to bed thinking if John got injured before we even made it to the work site, what was to come? 

Needless to say, the crowd of helpers who amassed at the dinghy dock on Monday morning, did not include John, who stayed in bed resting his foot. The kids and I led about 12 people to the projects we had promised to visit. 

Unfortunately, Guyferson and Ashton were not ready to receive our help at the respective job sites, and they asked us to return later in the week. With no jobs to do, the kids went hiking to Cabrits National Park with their friends. 

Crews of Saphira Blue, Trismic and Nahanni V

View of Portsmouth and anchorage from Cabrits National Park

Hikers

Other cruisers hopped on neighbouring roofs and volunteered their time. 

Volunteers found other roofs to work on

While everyone found things to do, John and I had some quality time together at the Portsmouth hospital to get him a tetanus shot and have his foot properly cleaned out by someone who used anesthetic, and had not presumably, been drinking rum.When we approached the hospital, it was evident that the building had suffered damage from the hurricane.

ER

ER entrance. Notice many of windows are still boarded up

Entrance to ER

John, doing his flamingo pose

Despite the damage, the hospital was up and running and we were seen within an hour. An efficient nurse gave John a tetanus shot, which was followed by a lovely Cuban doctor who gave his foot wound a reaming under local anesthetic. Amazing how much sand got in that wound! We were shocked when they did not charge us for any of their prompt and efficient services.

Ick

He's smiling, because he can't feel a thing

On our second day of work, the kids and I and several other cruisers met up with Ashton at the Possie Vibrations Radio Station. The first task was to dismantle the radio tower that had fallen during Maria and crossed the yard and into the neighbour's garden. Armed with wrenches, hammers, and WD40, our multi-generational team took each section apart.

Simon removing bolts

Wavey removing bolts with the help of John from Saphira Blue and 
Hilary and Martin from Chardonnay on Solent

Tough work

Pulling sections apart

Ashton with sledge hammer power

Moving the tower complete with lovely tropical flowers

Simon and Saphira Blue John digging out base

Ashton and the hammer

Done!

On the third day, John joined us ashore armed with his tools and pain meds, and went to work at the Lamb's Feast. Again, we were joined by several cruisers who came out with their tools and energy to help. 

John and Guyferson framing roof

John framing with his wonky foot

Some of us went to the radio station to clean up the inside of the station and around the yard. We all hesitated before cleaning up the downed (and disconnected) power lines...never supposed to touch them, right?

Simon digging the dirt to find the concrete floor

Crew of Saphira Blue removing downed power lines

While we were working, a local man lit a fire in front of the radio station to burn away the refuse we had gathered.
Freaked us all out! 

For the next two weeks, we left the boat each day and worked at both sites with varying crews from cruising boats.  We met Magoe and Clare from Macario (see their website) who have been helping out in the Eastern Caribbean for years and have been involved in the Lamb's Feast for years. We also met Susie and her crew from Spirited Lady who were helping those in needs in various parts of the island. It was inspiring to see so many people  offering their time and skills. We met many new friends both from the cruising community and from Dominica.
Photos from Possie Vibrations Radio Station:

Ashton figuring out electronics

Fanny, Chris and Nicholas cleaning up wires

Sorting mess up inside station. Notice the blue glow of the tarpaulin roof.

Myra from Calypso K and Chris from Saphira Blue cleaning up inside

Yes Wavey, everything needs to be cleaned!

Trying to get it all working, or secret wish to be a DJ?

Mounting the solar panels

Ashton, John and George from Starshot

Wavey cleaning out radio station

Penny and George from Starshot taking some shade from the midday heat

Penny and George from Starshot worked several days around the station and Lamb's Feast

John and Ashton deep in conversation

Kids taking a break by playing dominoes found in the back garden

Sorting through the parts

Ashton is smiling. We are transmitting!

Photos from Lamb's Feast:

Keeping the work site clean

Simon, Kat and Wavey working on their construction skills

Simon and Wavey with their friend Cammie

John and Guyferson

In addition to being a construction worker, Penny from Starshot was also a dentist.
She gave a little dental lesson to the kids during a break!

Getting those big sheets of galvanized up the side onto the roof.

Wind caught this sheet and went into the neighbour's yard. Luckily no one was hurt.

Half done

Guyferson working hard

Al from Sweet Dreams cutting the galvanized roofing material

Preschool across the street from the Lamb's Feast

Al and Maggie from Sweet Dreams

Our last day on the job

Our last day...almost done!

John and Clare from Macario

In addition to the two projects we were involved with, the kids were fortunate enough to be offered another project to work one Saturday during our stay in Dominica. Susie from her classic yacht, Spirited Lady, offered to take the kids and I to Brandy Manor, a riding stable in the forest that had been badly damaged by Maria. They needed some help to pick stones from their riding arena and to clear debris away from fallen trees and flooding.  Susie drove us to the farm, and with her crew of three, introduced us to Yasmin and Linton who were trying to recover their business following the storm.

Brandy Manor

For the first hour, we raked and picked stones from the arena and then assisted while the riders practiced their jumps. The kids helped with cleaning the stables, grooming the horses, and clearing brush to burn in two great bonfires.  As a reward, they rode the horses through the trails...a very special day!

Riding arena where we raked and picked stones

Stables

One of the students riding. Notice the damaged forest in the background.

Getting ready for riding practice

Beauty

Getting jumps set up

Part of the home that remained after Maria. Remains of the kitchen can be found down the creek.

Destruction of the yard

Linton leading the brush clearing

Simon clearing up debris

Picking up debris

The stables that kept the horses safe during the storm

More fire!

Tending to horses

Linton getting horses ready to ride

Susie and Linton getting ready for Simon to ride

Yasmin helping Wavey. She's so excited

On Beauty

Linton and Liz assisting the kids on the trail 

Washing horses down after ride

Helping Susie muck out stables

Giving horses a wash

Barn chores

Enjoying the end of a great day!

When we weren't working, we did a bit of exploring around the area. We were happy to see the market filled with vegetables, although the fruits were slower to return after the hurricane. Stores were becoming better stocked, although it still took a few shops to buy  necessities. Internet could be found in a few restaurants and on a street where people congregated on the sidewalks to check email and surf the web.

Checking email

Market day in Portsmouth

Bougainvillea bringing us vibrant colours 

The kids also had a unique opportunity to visit a local school and speak to a Grade 5 class about what it was like to live on a boat. Magoe from Macario coached the kids and help prepare them for their first speaking gig. The kids were welcomed and well-received in the classroom.

Meeting outside the class before speaking to the Grade 5 class

Preparing to speak to the class

Our kids started off by telling them that homeschooling was great, because they hadn't been to school in a month! I quickly had to remind them that we had been travelling and volunteering and that yes, they were going to get back on track soon.

Being introduced

New friends!

Signs on wall at Roosevelt Douglas School in Portsmouth

The kids had very little down time during these two weeks, but they did manage to find some time to swim and snorkel.  Simon happened to notice some large lion fish under our boat one day and together, Simon and Wavey speared supper. 

Simon speared it and Wavey is keeping it a safe distance due to its poisonous spines

Safely in the bucket

Yum

We were very proud of the kids' commitment to working hard in Dominica and learning how an island and a community recovers from a natural disaster. We were astounded by what people we met had been through, and their resiliency in rebuilding their lives.  

Our two weeks here was just a drop in the bucket in terms of meeting needs; our  contribution was really quite small, compared to what we gained from this experience.